Walking on Cheung Chau

Southeast Cheung Chau boasts paths that wind around headlands and curl up and over hillsides, passing through woodland, and near to naturally sculpted giant boulders, once grand but now ruined houses, a couple of temples, a tiny nunnery, and cliffs dropping to the sea. The main trail here is rather fancifully named the Mini Great Wall, but you can find other less known yet still fascinating paths to explore.

Perhaps the easiest route to the southeast is the path south from Tung Wan beach, to smaller Kwun Yam Wan. Just above Kwun Yam Wan is a small, garish red temple - and above this are a couple of trail junctions in a small valley (Fa Peng valley, to me). From one of these junctions, steps lead uphill - towards the Mini Great Wall.

There's a path leading uphill from beside Pak Tei Temple, up past an old folks' home. Keep left, and up and up flights of steps, and you'll come to a small, concrete park. Turn right here, and you can continue uphill, leaving the village to pass through trees, with views over to Lantau Island on your left.

The path skirts a service reservoir (on hilltop, but below ground). Below, to the left, is a housing development at the bottom of a valley - evidently supposed to be like places such as Hong Lok Yuen, but seems many places not occupied.

There's a rough track, then steps, up to a pavilion with fabulous views over Cheung Chau, and across the sea to Lamma, Hong Kong Island, Kowloon and Lantau. Well, fabulous if you're here on a clear day, and especially good late on a sparkling afternoon.

Though Cheung Po-tsai Cave is the best known tourist spot of southwest Cheung Chau, it's not the only place that's good for exploring. There's an excellent coastal trail, winding along a small cove, and a small bay with a beach, passing boulders where cacti grow (yes, wild cactus in Hong Kong), with excellent scenery.

This trail starts on the headland above Sai Wan village, at the southern end of the harbour (aka typhoon shelter). You can head there by walking along the waterfront road - which is popular with weekend and holiday cyclists and strollers.