So this is where it all began, the launding point for the career of Hong Kong's gold medal winning Olympian, Lee Lai-shan (San San): The Cheung Chau Windsurfing Centre. Set on a tiny headland between Cheung Chau's two main beaches, the centre commands fine views of the island, and eastwards to Lamma and Hong Kong Island.
On the ground inside the lower entrance is a big white circle, painted around a point where a demonstration windsurfer is set up for landlubbers' lessons. It is divided into eighths, and annotated "90, beam reaching"" and "upwind beating"; two arrows lead out, then turn and point to the foot of the steps, where another important label is painted: "Beer".
At the top of the steps, at home among the crowd thronging the open-air bar, is Lai Kan, the centre's owner and teacher, and the man who introduced niece San San to windsurfing.
